Growing Swede in Scotland: The Complete Guide

Brassica napus (Napobrassica Group)

Swede is the vegetable behind neeps and tatties, and one of the more forgiving crops you can grow.

Swede, the vegetable we call a neep, is a brassicaThe cabbage family: cabbage, kale, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, swede, turnip and more, sharing the same pests, diseases and rotation rules. Full definition → that asks for very little through the growing season and pays it back with a root that stands in the ground into winter, when the rest of the plot has long since gone over. It shares the brassica family's pest list and its liking for a cool, steady summer, and it needs the ground for up to six months, sown once in late spring, lifted from early autumn right through to the depths of winter.

Why swede suits Scotland

Swede belongs to the brassica group, and Scotland's cool, even summers are exactly what that group prefers. The same cool conditions that keep cabbage aphid and cabbage root fly less troublesome here than further south apply just as much to swede, which shares that pest list. It matures more slowly in a Scottish summer than a warmer one further south, but it matures steadily, and a root crop that takes up to six months to bulk up has plenty of season to use.

The bigger advantage is winter. Swede is genuinely hardy, and it earns its place in a Scottish rotationMoving each crop family to different ground each year, on a multi-year cycle, so pests and diseases that build up in soil don't get a repeat host. Full definition → by standing when little else is available on the plot, right through the gap between autumn and spring, the hardest stretch of the year to fill.

Varieties

All three RHS Award of Garden Merit varieties are close in character: the differences are mostly flesh colour, mildew resistance and how long they'll stand. The award is UK-wide, not a Scottish one.

Also worth considering

Best Swede Varieties for Scotland → compares all named swede varieties head-to-head, with the practical detail that doesn't fit in a summary card.

Soil and site

Swede wants an open, sunny site with moist, free-drainingSoil that lets water pass through quickly rather than pooling, so roots aren't sitting in wet ground after rain. Full definition →, fertile soil. Dig in plenty of garden compost or well-rotted manure, ideally well ahead of sowing, so the ground has settled by the time seed goes in. If your soil is acidic, as much of Scotland's naturally is, apply lime to raise the pH, in the same way as for other brassicas. Weed thoroughly, then firm the soil by treading it and rake it level before sowing.

If potatoes share your rotation, lime this bed the year you grow swede in it and leave the potato bed unlimed: raising the pH helps swede but raises the risk of scab on potatoes, so the two crops want opposite treatment from the same bag of lime.

Sowing and thinning

Sow from late spring to early summer (May to June), direct into the ground, about 2cm deep, in rows 38cm apart. Unlike faster crops, swede has one sowing window rather than a spread of batches: the six-month run to maturity is what it needs, not a succession of pickings.

Thin the seedlings once they're large enough to handle, to a final spacing of 23cm apart for full-size roots, or 8-10cm for baby veg lifted young. Sowing thinly helps, but it rarely removes the need to thin: direct-sown seed is not even enough to reliably land on the right spacing by itself, and a crowded row competes for the room a swede root actually needs to bulk up.

Watering and care

Water young plants regularly until they're well rooted, then keep the soil evenly moist through dry spells. Swede roots that dry out and are then watered heavily grow unevenly and can split or turn bitter, and that is the actual cause, not disease. A thick mulchA layer of material spread over the soil around plants to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and improve soil structure as it breaks down. Full definition → of well-rotted manure or garden compost helps hold moisture steady and suppress weeds, and matters most on sandy, free-draining soil.

Weed regularly, taking care not to damage the roots when hoeing close to the plants.

Harvesting

Swede is ready from September onwards, and takes up to six months from sowing to mature. Lift roots as baby veg after a few weeks, at around 5cm across, or leave them to full size, 10-15cm across, for the main winter crop.

Swede is genuinely hardy and can often be left standing through a Scottish winter, covered with straw, clochesA small, portable clear cover placed over an individual plant or short row to trap warmth and keep off wind, rain and pests. Full definition → or plastic-free fleeceA lightweight, breathable fabric laid or draped over plants to trap a little warmth and keep off frost, wind and some flying pests. Full definition →, and lifted as needed. But that has a limit: where soil sits wet over winter, or on an exposed upland plot, lift the roots in late autumn instead and store them in a box of moist sand or peat-freeCompost made without peat, which is harvested from a slow-forming, carbon-storing wetland habitat that peat extraction damages. Full definition → compost in a frost-free shed or garage.

Common problems

• Cabbage caterpillars can strip foliage in days. Cover with insect-proof mesh from sowing.
• Flea beetles riddle young leaves with small holes, worst in warm, dry spells. Less trouble in Scotland's cooler summers, but mesh over seedlings is cheap insurance.
• Slugs and snails and pigeons will both take young plants. Protect seedlings with mesh or barriers until established.

Common questions

Sources