Salvia rosmarinus
Rosemary is hardy through much of the UK and established plants survive down to about -8°C; what kills it is cold, wet soil around the roots, and the single most important thing you can do for it is dig grit into the planting hole.
It's a low-maintenance evergreen shrub that gives you aromatic leaves for cooking every month of the year, pale blue flowers in spring that attract bumblebees, and a scent that releases every time you brush past it. Once established against a warm wall in soil that drains freely, a rosemary bush will stand for years.
Why rosemary needs drainage in Scotland
Rosemary is a drought-tolerant plant from the Mediterranean: it evolved to survive dry summers, not wet winters, and a wet Scottish winter is the opposite of what it is adapted to. A south-facing wall reflects heat and keeps the ground drier on top of whatever grit you've worked in, while the same plant in heavy clay that stays saturated through winter will rot at the roots and die before spring.
Cold-Hardy Herb Border Design → works through how to tier rosemary and other Mediterranean herbs by hardiness in a permanent border.
Varieties
An upright form gives you the most leaves for cooking; a prostrate form works well in containers and over walls. Miss Jessopp's Upright and Foxtail both carry the RHS Award of Garden Merit, a UK-wide award, not a Scottish one.
★ Our pick for Scotland
Miss Jessopp's UprightAGM
Rosmarinus officinalis
An upright form with strongly aromatic leaves and pale blue flowers. Good for hedging and cooking.
Why this one: Vigorous vertical growth gives more usable leaf per plant for cooking than the semi-trailing Foxtail or ground-hugging prostrate rosemary, which are grown more for their spreading habitA plant's characteristic shape and manner of growth, such as upright, spreading, creeping or bushy. Full definition →.
Also worth considering
FoxtailAGM
Semi-trailing
Semi-trailing, arching stems form a low dome, with pale blue flowers. Good for containers and over walls.
Prostrate rosemary
R. officinalis Prostratus Group
Low spreading form, H3The RHS's H1a–H7 scale for how much cold a plant can survive outdoors, H1a being tender indoor-only and H7 hardy anywhere in the UK. Full definition → hardiness (a step down from the upright/semi-prostrate AGMThe RHS's Award of Garden Merit: a UK-wide trials award for reliable performance, not a Scotland-specific recommendation. Full definition → varieties). Good ground cover on well-drained banks.
Best Rosemary Varieties for Scotland → compares all named rosemary varieties head-to-head, with the practical detail that doesn't fit in a summary card.
Site and planting
Rosemary needs full sun and well-drained soil, and will tolerate poor dry soil. Choose the sunniest, most sheltered spot you have. A south-facing wall is ideal. The reflected heat keeps the soil drier and the plant healthier.
Plant in spring, once the soil is starting to warm up. Dig a hole wider than the rootballThe mass of roots and the soil or compost clinging to them, as it comes out of a pot or out of the ground when a plant is lifted. Full definition →. Mix a generous handful of horticultural grit into the bottom of the hole and into the backfillThe soil (sometimes improved with grit or compost) used to fill the gap around a plant's roots after it's placed in its planting hole. Full definition → soil. Compost and manure aren't needed. Rosemary wants light, free-drainingSoil that lets water pass through quickly rather than pooling, so roots aren't sitting in wet ground after rain. Full definition → soil, not rich damp soil.
Space plants 45cm apart if planting a hedge. Water in well after planting and then leave it. Rosemary does not need regular watering once established.

For containers, use a pot at least 30cm wide and deep with plenty of drainage holes. Fill with peat-freeCompost made without peat, which is harvested from a slow-forming, carbon-storing wetland habitat that peat extraction damages. Full definition → soil-based compost mixed with up to 25% horticultural grit by volume. Raise the pot onMoving a plant into a larger pot as its roots fill the current one, giving it more room and fresh compost before it becomes pot-bound. Full definition → feet over winter so water can drain freely, and move it to a sheltered spot in wet weather, such as near a building in a rain shadow. A pot gives you control over drainage, which is the variable that matters most in a wet winter.
Care through the season
Once established, rosemary needs almost no care. Do not water it except during prolonged drought. Plants in the ground don't need feeding; a pot plant that has stood in the same compost for over a year benefits from a sprinkling of general-purpose granular feed in late spring or early summer. In a very cold spell, cover ground plants with fleeceA lightweight, breathable fabric laid or draped over plants to trap a little warmth and keep off frost, wind and some flying pests. Full definition →, hessian or an old bedsheet.
Pruning: trim lightly after flowering in late spring or early summer. Cut just the spent flower stems and any straggly shoots. Avoid cutting into old brown wood: rosemary doesn't usually recover from heavy pruning. Regular light trimming keeps the bush dense and productive, and old, straggly plants are best replaced.

Harvesting: pick sprigs as you need them, all year round. The soft new growth in late spring and summer has the best flavour, but rosemary leaves are usable through winter. Cut whole sprigs rather than stripping individual leaves. The plant responds to regular harvesting by producing more new growth.
Propagation: take softwood cuttings from new growth in late spring or summer, or semi-ripe cuttings in summer; low stems can also be layeredPropagating a new plant by pinning a low, flexible stem into the soil while still attached to the parent, so it roots before being cut free. Full definition → in spring or autumn. Cut a 10 to 15cm piece from a non-flowering shoot. Strip the lower leaves, dip in rooting hormone if you have it, and insert into a pot of gritty compost. Keep in a sheltered spot. Take a cutting of your existing plant every few years so you have a replacement growing before the old bush reaches the end of its life.
Common problems
- Root rot from cold wet soil is the main cause of rosemary death in wet climates. Leaves turn brown. Improve drainage or move to a drier spot. If the whole plant is affected, it is probably too far gone.
- Rosemary beetle is a small metallic green-and-purple beetle that eats the leaves. Pick them off by hand and drop them into soapy water. Check the undersides of leaves for clusters of small grey larvae.
- LeggyDescribes a plant that's grown tall, thin and sparse rather than bushy, usually from too little light or not being pinched out. Full definition → bare stems mean the plant was not pruned regularly. Light annual trims keep it dense. Do not cut into old woodWhether a plant fruits on stems grown the previous year (young wood) or on older, established branches (old wood), which decides how it's pruned. Full definition →. Start a replacement plant from a cutting if the old one is too woody.
See more problems
- Yellowing leaves often mean the soil is too wet. Stop watering. If the plant is in heavy ground, lift it and replant with more grit; it is a drainage problem more often than a feeding problem.
- Sage and Ligurian leafhoppers cause coarse pale mottling on the leaves; growth and vigour aren't affected.
- Xylella fastidiosa is a serious bacterial disease not currently found in the UK, but rosemary is named as one of its high-risk host plants. It causes leaf scorch, wilting and dieback, symptoms easily mistaken for drought or frost damage. There is no cure, so a suspected case should be reported to the relevant plant health authority rather than treated. Buying British-grown plants reduces the risk, and most gardens will never see it.
Common questions
Is rosemary hardy in Scotland?
Usually, yes: established plants survive temperatures as low as -8°C, and what kills it is wet roots in winter. Drainage matters more than chasing maximum sun, so grit in the planting hole and a sheltered spot (ideally against a south-facing wall) do more than all-day sunshine. In a very cold spell, cover plants with fleece or hessian. See also: Rosemary Myths →
How do I prune rosemary?
Trim lightly after flowering and never cut into old, bare wood: rosemary does not reliably regrow from it, so a hard cut into old wood usually kills that branch rather than renewing it. See also: Rosemary Myths →
Can I grow rosemary in a pot?
Yes, and a pot even gives you full control over drainage, but the roots are less insulated than they would be in the ground, so container rosemary needs winter protection: group pots together, wrap them or move them somewhere sheltered, and keep them out of heavy rain. See also: Rosemary Myths →
Why are the leaves on my rosemary turning brown?
Often root rot from wet soil. If the plant is in the ground and sitting in cold wet clay through winter, the roots may be rotting. If the damage is not widespread, improve drainage around the plant and prune out the dead branches. If the whole plant is browning, it is probably too far gone. Start a new one in a better-drained spot.
Sources
Show the source
- RHS: evergreen shrub habit, spring planting, established plants surviving to -8C, fleece or hessian in cold spells, wet-roots aversion and root rot, raised beds and containers on clay, 45cm spacing, 30cm container minimum with up to 25% grit, light annual trim after flowering, softwood and semi-ripe cuttings and layering, Xylella host risk, harvest window, AGM varieties

