An established rhubarb crownThe base of a perennial plant where roots and shoots meet, often sold and planted as a ready-made dormant plant rather than grown from seed. Full definition → can outproduce any household, and the answer is to pull no more than a third of the stalks at a time, spread the cropping with one forcedCovering plants to exclude light and speed early, tender growth in the dark, most associated with rhubarb and sea kale in late winter. Full definition → crown and an early variety, and freeze or preserve what is left. Stalks are usually picked in spring and early summer, so the glut has a clear start and finish.

For planting and care see the rhubarb growing guide. For forcing in detail see forcing rhubarb in Scotland.

How much you can take

Pull stalks rather than cutting them: pull and twist them off the plant, which stimulates fresh growth. Stalks are ready from spring once they reach 30 to 60cm, depending on the variety. Leave plenty of stems growing. Once the plant is in its third year, take up to a third of the stalks at any one time. Garden Organic is more cautious and leaves at least half the stems growing, so the lower figure is the safer one if you are unsure. Whatever you cannot use, give to neighbours, an allotment society or a plant swap rather than pulling extra.

Stop harvesting in late June or early July, or at most take a few stalks from established clumps after then (RHS), so the crown can rebuild for next year. Make that stop firm: a cool, damp Scottish summer is unlikely to slow the crown for you. If stalks come up thin and weak, the crown is tiring, so stop picking it for the season, mulchA layer of material spread over the soil around plants to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and improve soil structure as it breaks down. Full definition → it, and divide it if it stays weak.

Crown ageWhat to take
Year 1 (just planted)Nothing: let it establish
Year 2Only a few stalks
Year 3 onwardsUp to a third of the stalks at any one time (Garden Organic leaves at least half growing)
A hand pulling a rhubarb stalk away from the crown at its base
Pull rather than cut, and leave most of the canopy standing.

Keeping the crown productive

Mulch each year with well-rotted manure or garden compost, keeping it off the crown itself so the top buds do not rot. Remove flower stems as they appear, which directs energy back into the stalks. Rhubarb dislikes waterlogged soil: on heavy clay or poorly drained ground, grow it in a raised bed or large container. Crown rot is the most common disease and has no remedy, so dig up affected plants and start again on a new site. Divide an overcrowded clump about every five years, in late autumn or winter, to keep it cropping well.

Spreading the harvest: varieties and forcing

PeriodWhat to useWhat you get
February to MarchA forced crown, or an early variety such as Timperley EarlyTender pink, shorter, sweeter stems, weeks ahead of anything outdoors
SpringUnforced crownsNormal harvest of stalks 30 to 60cm long, depending on variety
Spring to early summerLater-cropping varietiesSpreads the crop beyond the early peak; RHS suggests late varieties for cold sites
By JulyAll crownsThe end of the harvest window (April to July); leave the leaves alone from here

More crowns of the same variety on the same soil crop at the same time, so they multiply the glut instead of spreading it. Two things stagger it. First, choose varieties that crop at different times: Timperley Early is one of the earliest and is ideal for forcing, and later-cropping varieties extend the season. Victoria is an old, reliable variety with high yields that can be harvested as baby stems, forced or left to mature. See the best rhubarb varieties for Scotland.

Second, force one strong, established crown. Cover it in mid-winter with a forcing jar, tall bucket or dustbin so the stems grow in the dark. Stalks are ready four to eight weeks after covering, at about 30cm, and they are shorter and sweeter than outdoor stalks. Take them all, remove the cover, and take no more from that plant until the following year (RHS). Forced crowns will not usually produce much of a crop later on, though they can be dividedPropagating a clump-forming perennial by digging it up and splitting it into several smaller pieces, each with roots and shoots attached. Full definition → and replanted in summer, so do not force the same crown two years running. Late frosts can damage young stalks, forced ones especially, so cover new growth with straw or biodegradable fleeceA lightweight, breathable fabric laid or draped over plants to trap a little warmth and keep off frost, wind and some flying pests. Full definition → if a frost is forecast; check the Scottish frost dates for your area. Slugs and snails may damage young shoots, especially under a forcing cover, so lift the cover now and then to look.

A terracotta forcing pot placed over a rhubarb crown in late winter
A terracotta forcing pot over a crown.

Using up the surplus

Rhubarb is best used fresh, but pulled stalks keep in the fridge for a couple of weeks (RHS). Pull only what you will use in the next few days, and freeze the rest.

Rhubarb is usually stewed, baked in pies and crumbles, or used in chutneys and savoury sauces, and it makes cordials and other drinks. Two recipes on this site use up a lot at once: rhubarb and ginger jam and rhubarb chutney.

To freeze it, wash, trim and cut the stalks into lengths to fit the container. Heating the pieces in boiling water for one minute, then cooling them promptly in cold water, helps retain colour and flavour. Pack the pieces tightly, either raw or blanchedExcluding light from part of a growing plant, usually by earthing up, wrapping or covering, so it grows pale, tender and less bitter. Full definition →, into containers without sugar (a dry pack) or covered in cold 40 per cent syrup, leave headspace, seal and freeze. Choose firm, tender, well-coloured stalks with few fibres for freezing.

Leaves and oxalic acid

Eat only the stalks: the leaves are extremely poisonous. They are safe to compost, because the oxalic acid in them breaks down during decomposition. The oxalic acid that builds up in the plant as the season goes on is mostly in the leaves, and the amount in the stems is too little to have a toxic effect.

Common questions

Can I keep pulling rhubarb all summer?

No. Stalks are usually picked in spring and early summer, and April to July is the harvest window (Garden Organic). After that, leave the leaves alone.

Is it better to pull a few stalks often or a lot at once?

The limit is proportion, not frequency: up to about a third of the stalks at any one time once the plant is in its third year. Garden Organic is more cautious and says to leave at least half the stems growing.

Will a second crown spread the harvest?

Not if it is the same variety on the same soil: both will crop at the same time. Force one crown for a February harvest, or pair an early variety with a later-cropping one.

Does forced rhubarb taste different?

Yes. Forced stems are shorter, paler and sweeter than stems grown in the open.

Can I compost the leaves?

Yes. Rhubarb leaves are extremely poisonous to eat, but the oxalic acid in them breaks down in a compost bin, so composting them is fine.

Sources

Show the 4 sources
  • RHS: Rhubarb, grow your own: Harvest from the third year at up to a third of the stalks, picking in spring and early summer, forcing in mid-winter with an early variety and strong plant (ready four to eight weeks after covering), late-cropping varieties for cold sites, late frost cover, slugs under forcing covers, oxalic acid in leaves and stems, dividing about every five years, waterlogged soil, and uses in pies, crumbles, chutneys and sauces
  • Garden Organic: rhubarb: Pull rather than cut, leaving at least half the stems growing, harvest from the second year, April to July harvest window, forcing, and keeping mulch off the crown
  • Gardener's World: How to grow rhubarb: Pulling and twisting stalks, stalks 30 to 60cm, forced rhubarb ready from late winter with shorter, sweeter stems, forced crowns cropping poorly afterwards, Timperley Early for February, poisonous leaves, cordials and drinks
  • National Center for Home Food Preservation: Freezing rhubarb: Preparing, blanching, dry and syrup packing, and freezing rhubarb