Growing Globe Artichoke in Scotland: The Complete Guide

Cynara cardunculus (Scolymus Group)

Globe artichoke is a marginal crop for a cold, exposed Scottish garden: it needs shelter from frost-prone ground to survive, let alone crop. A sheltered spot, deliberate winter protection and a hardy variety turn it into a real, if patient, harvest.

Despite the shared name, this is an unrelated plant to Jerusalem artichoke: a thistle relative grown for its large, unopened flower bud, not a sunflower relative grown for a tuberA swollen underground stem or root a plant uses to store energy, which can also grow into a new plant, the classic example being a potato. Full definition →. If it's the tuber crop you're after, see our Jerusalem artichoke guide instead. It is an architectural perennial as well as a vegetable, growing 1-1.5m tall and up to 1m wide with large silvery-grey leaves, and it asks for patience: any flower buds in the first year are removed, and the first crop comes in the second summer. What you're growing towards is the fleshy base of the bud's scales and the heart underneath: boiled, steamed, roasted or grilled, then eaten with melted butter or a dressing.

Perennial Vegetables Worth Growing in Scotland → compares globe artichoke against the other permanent-bed crops worth the same long-term commitment.

Planting

Buy plug or young pot-grown plants from an online supplier in spring, or a larger container-grown plant from a garden centre at most times of year; packeted seed is sold too, if you'd rather start from scratch. Plant out in late spring or early summer, after the last frost. Seed sown indoors from February to March should be hardened offGradually getting young plants raised indoors used to outdoor conditions over 7–14 days before planting out, so cold, wind and direct sun don't shock or damage them. Full definition → and planted out once it has 5 or more true leaves and is about 30cm tall. Space plants 60-90cm apart (75-90cm is the RHS range; 60cm is Gardener's World's low end), in a warm, sunny, sheltered site with reasonably fertile, free-drainingSoil that lets water pass through quickly rather than pooling, so roots aren't sitting in wet ground after rain. Full definition → soil, and avoid very cold, frost-prone or waterlogged spots. Dig in two bucketfuls of organic matter per square metre before planting. On a cold inland or northern plot without that kind of sheltered spot, growing in a large container, at least 45cm wide and deep, keeps the option of moving it under cover for winter rather than relying on mulchA layer of material spread over the soil around plants to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and improve soil structure as it breaks down. Full definition → alone.

Winter protection

Spread a thick mulch of spent foliage, straw, bracken or garden compost over the crownThe base of a perennial plant where roots and shoots meet, often sold and planted as a ready-made dormant plant rather than grown from seed. Full definition → in late autumn, and cover young plants with fleeceA lightweight, breathable fabric laid or draped over plants to trap a little warmth and keep off frost, wind and some flying pests. Full definition → or clochesA small, portable clear cover placed over an individual plant or short row to trap warmth and keep off wind, rain and pests. Full definition → through a hard frost. An established plant, one that's been in place two or three years, can usually cope with its crown protected this way, but a severe or prolonged frost can still kill an unprotected plant outright. Treat this as a routine yearly task, not an occasional precaution.

Varieties

None of these varieties carry an RHS Award of Garden Merit, so hardiness and cropping reliability are what separate them. Hardier varieties are the better choice in colder parts of the UK.

Also worth considering

Care

Water regularly through the first growing season while plants establish. Once established, globe artichoke is fairly drought tolerant, though watering during a prolonged hot, dry spell (particularly while buds are forming) improves both crop size and quality. Mulch to retain moisture. Feeding usually isn't necessary in reasonable soil, but an organic, high-potassium fertiliser in spring helps on poorer ground.

Divide established clumps every few years to keep them vigorous; the RHS growing guide says about every five years, and shorter is fine if cropping starts to decline. Lift the clump in spring and either split it or detach young offset rosettes 20-30cm tall from the base, trim their leaves back to about 15cm, and replant straight away.

Harvesting

Expect the first real harvest in the second summer after planting (on average about 18 months); remove any buds that form in the first year so the plant builds roots. From June onward, cut flower buds with secateurs just above a leaf joint while they're still full size but tightly closed: soft, loose scales mean the bud has opened too far. Cut the main central bud first; smaller secondary buds follow through the season, with a mature plant producing up to 12 buds in a season. Leave one or two buds to open into their large purple thistle-like flowers if you want them: they draw bumblebees and other pollinators.

Common problems

• Aphids can colonise the buds and leaves, though this is otherwise a largely trouble-free plant.
• Slugs and snails are mainly a risk to young plants rather than established clumps.
• Frost damage is the most serious risk here: harsh weather can kill plants, and young plants are most vulnerable in their first winter.

Common questions

Sources